Which grinding wheel should I choose?
I find the material abrasion on the workpiece to be relatively high with 600 diamond stone. What would you recommend as the next stone?
Japan water stone or 1200 diamond. Main application I have knives from 58 up to 67 Rockvel and special steels such as hunting knives made of powder metallurgy steel and Japanese chef's knife and butcher's knife. But also everything that happens in the house, garden and forest and hunting. How sensitive is the Japan stone ?
Japan water stone or 1200 diamond. Main application I have knives from 58 up to 67 Rockvel and special steels such as hunting knives made of powder metallurgy steel and Japanese chef's knife and butcher's knife. But also everything that happens in the house, garden and forest and hunting. How sensitive is the Japan stone ?
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The next step would be the Diamond Wheel DE-250 for the T-8 or the DE-200 for the T-4 Model.
The jump to the Japanese Waterstone SJ-250/SJ200 would be to great from 600 to 4000 grid - especailly for the harder steels. The more steps you have the faster it is at the end and the result is much better. The milder steels around 56-59 HRC would be no bigger issue to sharpen/polish when you go directly from 600 to 4000 grid.
The Diamond Wheel DF-250/DF-200 is very aggressive from the beginning, it will loosen the aggressivity after a while and maintain the abrassion.
See here also comparisson of the different wheels:
https://tormek.com/en/knowledge/the-tormek-way-of-sharpening/grinding-wheels-guide
I hope I could help you with qour question, otherwise feel free to contact us on support@tormek.se
Wolfgang Danke das beantwortet genau meine Frage.
Danke für die schnelle und kompetente Antwort und Danke für die super Videos.
Gruß
Hans Georg
The difference is in the grid, 1200 for the Diamond Wheel DE-250 to the Japanese Waterstone JS-250 with a grid of 4000 (JIS) which compares to some other charts e.g. to 8-12000 grid.
The finish of the Diamond Wheel DE-250 is a more silky finish, can be polished to a nearly mirror finish but you would see tiny groves, but the finish is shiny. With the Japanese waterstone JS-250 you'll achieve a mirror finish.
The Diamond is more abrasive compared to the Japanese Waterstone. That means when sharpening/polishing hard steels on a Japanese Waterstone it would take a bit longer.
If you use the DE-250 after you have sharpened your blade as a "jumping board" to the JS-250 it would be slightly faster. The more steps in the grid the faster the process.
Thank you for your very helpful reply. I’ll likely purchase the DE-250 first. I can then keep the SG-250 adjusted to a coarser or mid-range grid, jumping to the DE-250 before honing. When touching up edges which are already in great condition, I suspect I could skip the DG-250 and sharpen on the DE-250 alone before honing. Later, if I still want more of a mirror finish, I’ll consider adding a JS-250 too. The DE-250 is about 20% cheaper than the JS-250 at current US pricing and it includes the ACC-150 anti corrosion fluid which I wanted to try anyway. For reference, I’m used to sharpening with diamond stones (up to 1500 grid) on a KME angle guided sharpener. I look forward to receiving and sharpening with my new Tormek T8.
Thank you again and best regards.
Don
You are absolutely right, there is no need to go all the way through the grids. You can skip the SG-250 when the edge isn't extremely dull or damaged, then you can go striaght to the maintenance and sharpen on the DE-250. Just remember, use no pressure on a diamond wheel, let the wheel do the magic.
Stay sharp!